Monday, December 17, 2007
Montañosa Research Development Center (MRDC)
After 30 years, MRDC was able to encourage most of the Cordillera region into organic farming (something that the government did not do). They started the Microhydro project (the first one in the Philippines) and established the longest-lasting generator. The Microhydro Project is a program to generate canal water into producing electric current and the current is used to distribute the lighting system in small villages and to power agricultural tools.
MRDC is involved in traditional agriculture and at the same time adapting new technology. In order to keep the balance and to decide which techniques should or should not be used. MRDC is slowly changing the perception of people, to get them to maintain a vegetable garden. As seen in Sagada, the current trend is for many people to have vegetable plots, as it allows maximum use of the soil. Back in the 1980’s very few NGO’s promoted farming, but thankfully it wasn’t too late to maintain a safe and fertile soil. Now people plant broccoli, potatoes and other vegetables.
Organic fertilizer can be produced 10-20 times a month in small portions. And MRDC has not only introduced fertilizer but also introduced new breeds of seeds, and new methods of seed selection. They do not find it hard to introduce and convince the indigenous people to use advance technology as compared to the traditional systems as the new methods have proven to increase crops. Indigenous people know that the change in the system is for their benefit. If the indigenous people stick with the traditional system of farming, they would need a minimum of three years to get the same amount of produce. Organic farming yields more in the long run and is a more fruitful option.
MRDC does not just conduct community farming. It also organizes music shows, performance arts, focusing on the agricultural aspect and raising awareness amongst the people. They also support CPA programs. For this reason, government threats do take place. For example, recently the chairman of MRDC, Dr. Claver and his wife were ambushed. And the MRDC office at Sagada, is constantly being watched by guards.
One of the most recent projects by MRDC was to assign the distribution of water. Water is the main source of tribal conflict among rice terraces and water hills. The distribution of water is assigned to one or two people and used as a practical means to reduce conflict with the distribution of water.
Another issue that was recently handled, is the problem of giant earth worms. These giant earth worm could be as small as the size of a thumb, yet also as large as that of a snake. They do not harm the vegetables. However, these giant earth worms would dig a hole right through the water walls or the rice fields draining out all the water in the rice terraces and causing the rice fields to dry up. MRDC has been trying to find a solution to obliterate these giant earth worms.
Another campaign that MRDC tries to encourage is the cause to save the forest. They continue to this day to fight against multinational co-operations. MRDC tries to persuade people to have more concern for the environment and to not only think of financial benefits but to also consider the ethical investments. “Here, we are not trying to welcome big companies who have an interest towards mining. We are more keen to accept companies who respect the culture of the people and want to support agriculture” said Robert Pangod.
By Dyah
Mysterious Stones in Sagada
In the scorching Sagadan mid-morning, our group took a stroll to an agricultural village to see Dap-ay. The Dap-ay is a circular gathering place which can be found across neighbouring towns in Mt. Province. The Dap-ay serves as a rallying point for villagers as they conduct necessary rituals to celebrate harvesting season in order to ensure the productivity of good crops before the first process of a seedling grows into a primary plant. Begnas (the rice ritual) is celebrated twice a year. During large scale celebrations like Begnas, pigs would be slaughtered for bigger rituals whereas chickens are served during smaller rituals. Within a Dap-ay, a Sab-ong which consists of reed and chicken feathers are attached together to mark the end of ritualistic conducts. A distinct social hierarchy is inherent among communities within a tribe based on one's age. The older people have to gather on the upper ground of the Dap-ay. On the other hand, the younger ones are required to congregate on lower ground as a sign of respect to their elders.
During Begnas, females are requested to cook for the elders and dine separately from the men. Other than Begnas, they are welcome to join the others during the feast. The whole community including other nearby villagers and visitors are cordially invited to get together around Dap-ay throughout special occasions like Begnas. Nowadays, tourists are also welcome to experience the various festive occasions.
Back in the day, an Abong, a hut which served as the dorms for males was situated next to the Dap-ay whereby male adolescents slept there. During the olden days, the Dap-ay was a gathering place that symbolized the civil conflict among indigenous tribes in Sagada. This historical artefact was built thousands of years ago. Each stone represented a beheaded head or skull (from an opposing village) being buried underneath, connoting one's tribe victory during a particular civil war. The head was beheaded but not other human body parts simply because a head signified a seed of the spirit. Hence, during funerals, exactly 21 pigs must be slaughtered in order to appease the spirit. Furthermore, since the Dap-ay is deemed a sacred place, girls who have hit puberty are forbidden from entering inside the surrounding area.
There are 19 Barangays in Sagada. Each Barangay can have more than one Dap-ay. Dates of occasional celebration and ritualistic conducts around Dap-ay are based on different decisions made among these Barangays.
It used to be that the council of elders were consulted to impose punishment on the criminals, while the degree of punishment on criminals was based on a case-to-case basis. Now, villagers handle criminal issues in the court. Ah. Such are the modern ways these days
By Jasmine Chew
Female Comfort Rooms
The idea of home is very fluid nowadays. One of the many ways to identify a home is where toilet tissues unroll endlessly and clean water gush out in places where we expect. Thus, the entire washroom experience can be enjoyed no matter while we sit, squat, stand or fidget.
However, in Baguio and Sagada, a 30 seconds relief may end up as a great struggle ranging from one minute to four minutes and 17 seconds. Several days in these two tourist hot spots has allowed me to gain an insight to the total level of enjoyment by the standard of their toilets, known as comfort rooms (CR) in the Philippines.
Departing from Clarke Airport, the public toilet on the way to Baguio is classified as One Star. It is simply a drainage system which allows faeces to pile up as time goes by. Doors are non-existent and during the process of urination, it is better to stare at your own knees or arms.
Two Star Comfort Rooms are slightly better. These are either without doors, without flushes, or crammed units. Our visit to the University of Philippines Baguio couldn’t have been complete without a toilet inspection. Upon entering the cubicle, there was only enough space to make a 180 degrees turn and do it. Very much like most comfort rooms in Baguio and Sagada, water doesn’t come with just one push or nudge. A bucket is used to scoop water manually. Sometimes it requires more than one or two scoops to get the water as clear as when you entered.
One thing is particularly evident for toilets in Sagada. The windows are positioned very close to the toilet seat. At the St Joseph Guesthouse restaurant toilet, the same leveled window is next to the toilet seat. I kept my head low and dare not swing my head too much in case someone caught my unintended attention. However, this is considered Three Star due to the fully covered doors and more often than not, the functioning flushes. At the cottage I stayed in, there was no toilet seat so I resorted to the numbing coldness that took over during every toilet visit.
Nevertheless, the Four Star toilet since I have arrived in the Philippines is undoubtedly at La Brea Inn in Baguio. With one little flush, all our wastes are drained away instantly. Toilet tissue is replenished everyday and it is possible to comfortably warm up the toilet seat while reflecting on the events which occurred earlier in the day or even week. There is no need to do the horse stand, nor fold up long pants.
I have yet to see a Six Star comfort room, but to this date, the comfort rooms at Camp John Hay Manor is rated a Five Star. As you open the door with the little stick man in a skirt, an invigorating breeze welcomes you. The tiles are cautiously arranged and the mirrors bring out sparkles in your hair. It is spacious and clean, equipped with no less than two rolls of toilet tissues. The comfort room is suitable for hanging out with your girlfriends or to exchange some quick news feeds.
I like the feeling of clean water running through my fingers and my toes. I’m aware that even a Six Star comfort room may not refresh me like the Bokong Waterfall in Sagada. Perhaps a visit in the next decade to the comfort rooms of Baguio and Sagada will exceed my expectations so you never know…
You never know what lies behind closed doors.
By Mindy
Sunday, December 16, 2007
Day 5: Discovering Sagada
I woke up earlier than usual to pray and to have a walk around the cottage. I ate my breakfast at St. Joseph Café and had a cheese and herb omelet (Ed: the omelet was definitely to die for, all creamy and gooey inside it was), and surprisingly I chose coffee over tea (normally I am a tea person). I was surprised to find that that I loved drinking the local coffee.
We went to the St. Mary the Virgin Church and joined Aron, Shu Yi, Melissa, and Dr. Yeoh who where there. After church, we were accompanied by Darwin and Dandan (two local boys we met at St. Joseph’s Café, who decided to be our impromptu tour guides) to Echo Valley. We faced muddy lands, slippery rocks, and a steep landscape and arrived at the Hanging Coffin area and took some pictures of the wonder of such a feat.
(Ed: Maya started calling the dog, Foot-long and the name kinda stuck whenever we saw Foot-long around Sagada)
After stopping at Sagada Weaving to shop for the some gifts to bring home, the next hot spot we went to was a small waterfall, where we passed by Mary Carling’s (the great lady who helped coordinate our visits to local NGOs from the Philippine end) house on the way there. We faced a pretty tough landscape getting to the waterfall but survived! The water was freezing but we didn’t care. We started taking off our shoes and walked across the small pond with our bare feet. We splashed water on each other and took some pictures. Pooi Yarn even dared me to put my hands into the water as long as possible.
After leaving the waterfall, we went back to St. Joseph’s Café to have lunch. After I ordered a dish of boneless Bangus (fish), I realized that one of my fingers was bleeding (it must have bled while I held the rough grass when climbing up the hill). So while the others waited for their food, I went to my cottage and put a plaster on the bleeding finger.
After lunch, we went back to the cottage to get ready for dinner with the priest from St. Mary’s, Father Jerry. We ended up at having dinner at Masferres, a small restaurant with him.
Back at the cottage, 9 of us girls living together found out that nobody had the key to our cottage. We had accidentally locked ourselves out while making the assumption that someone had the key. I tried to open the door with a hair pin but failed. Finally one of the workers at the guest house came with screwdriver and opened the door with it since they could not find the spare key.
We all went into the attic in the cottage and celebrated the birthdays of the December girls with a pie. We all wish you a wonderful year, girls. :-PBy Dyah
The Sumaging Caves: Part 2
It all started with us walking 45 minutes to get to the destination, later we climbed down a flight of stairs into the cave. We ventured deeper into the cave with the sound of bats echoing in our ears and the feeling of bat poop on both hands and feet. It was very disgusting for me. I shuddered just recalling the squashy texture on my hands. The path we took was not a smooth ride. It was filled with sharp edged rocks and stones and the bat poop just make the ground slippery which made the walk much more difficult than it already was. You really have to concentrate on where you were walking. It is a pity for I was not able to enjoy the scenery around me. Not that there was much to see for the cave was really dark.
The cave was lit only by two lanterns held by our two professional eco-guides - one in the front and the other at the back. Adventurers would not get to see what was ahead of them nor could they see anything behind them. Our vision was filled with plain darkness. After walking past the bat poop part, we were told to walk barefooted as it helped with our walking. Our arms and legs were smeared with poop so it was heavenly when we stepped into the cooling water and washed up. We have to climb down and wade through the chilling yet refreshing water (I don’t think many would agree with me on this as all of them screamed COLD the moment they got into the water). We passed by some interesting rock formations as mentioned in Feeza’s post.
However, the highlight of this entire expedition was Max losing his glasses. We had passed by a small yet deep pool in the middle of the cave. The two guides jumped into it and looking at them swimming around happily made some of us itch to join in the fun. Eunice was the first daring soul to leap into the chilly water. Max jumped into the pool and the force must have been too hard and his glasses came off from it's position. I must say that the two guides were really nice for they dived into the pool several times to search for it. It wasn’t an easy task for the water was freezing and it got difficult to go underwater.
It was quite annoying that after we were clean, we had to return to the surface using the same route. All of us got filthy again by the time we reached the starting point. It was truly an experience not to be missed. For those who told me that it would be difficult and tiring, they were wrong. The scrapes and cuts on my arms and legs are symbols of victory to me.
By Jojo
The Sumaging Cave: Part 1
The cave that we ventured into is known as The Sumaging Cave or also known as the Big Cave. This cave is situated in Sagada and Sagada is a town in Mt. Province. It takes a 6 hour bus ride to get to Sagada from Baguio. According to the guide, the cave was once filled with sea water a few decades ago hence the cave was created by water erosion. We had to first register at the Sagada Municipal hall indicating our intention to go caving and we paid 110 pesos for that activity, 100 pesos for the guides and 10 pesos for environmental fees. (I guess that the 10 pesos will be paid to Mother Nature in case we mess up the cave.)
Our guides were well equipped with lanterns and they were familiar with the ins and outs of the cave. All their explanations were really beneficial to us. We were basically awed by Sumaging cave’s sheer size, fascinating chambers and rock formations, all the rock formations really mesmerized us especially the size of it. Without looking too closely I don’t think we would make sense of the formation. The names I could remember was the “Kings’s Curtain”, “Chocolate Cake”, “Pregnant Women”, “The Penis”, “The Elephant”, “The Pig’s Pen”, “The Hiding Turtle” and etc. All their larger than life resemblances of the real things really made our jaws drop and our eyes popped out not believing what we saw.
To get around the cave we had to make our body flexible because a part of the cave that is known as "The Tunnel" consists of a series of tiny passages that made us to do limbo-like movements, army and baby-like crawling to pass through. Somewhere deep in the caves there were “bats poop” or also known as “Guano” the smell was bearable but not the texture however the guano was mostly at the top of the caves.
Further in the caves, it started to get cold due to the water features that existed in the cave. There are some areas of the caves that is covered with water and the first water encounter was about knee deep only but not long after that the water level was up to the chest level. There were also routes that needed us to repel down, jump like monkeys side ways and even used the guide’s leg as stepping stone. (Pity him I hope he’s not down with a fracture or something).
The excited amateur cavers then had a chance to have a dip in the pool with a waterfall. It was a deep pool since it was once a deep sea area. The temperature of the water was so cold until at one point I felt like a penguin having to be able to stand the ice cold water. The whole cave was chilly until we could see mist coming out from us, not only from our mouth but from our hands, fingers, body and everywhere. I think it’s our warm mammal body reacting to the cold temperatures in the cave. But seriously, a sweater and warm clothing are not needed. Just slippers, and suitable sports attire is enough. In case you want to go swimming in the pool down the cave. Swim suits are a necessity or just dive in with whatever you have! All in all that is a brief description of the Sumaging cave in Sagada. Photos will appear, as soon as Temme gets them from Rommel and Chini and I bet you’ll understand what I’ve been trying to tell you when you see the pictures. Don’t forget to read Jojo’s entry about us being silly in the Sumanging Cave. Until then, take care!
By Feeza
A Taste of Filipino Culture
Baguio is like an old town in Malaysia with very few high-rise buildings, with shops at a convenient distance. We lived on Session Road, the main street of Baguio which can get pretty crowded during peak hours.
I observed that security can be pretty tight in Baguio, in response to the political unrest and terrorism. Before we entered SM Mall, our bags and bodies were briefly checked and even places such as 7 Eleven and McDonald’s would have armed security guards present. For me, I find it as a good sign and it made me feel safe during the stay. In Baguio, we were approached by many locals and police officers that would advise us to be careful with pickpockets, although none of us were victims; I really appreciated the efforts and kind advice from the locals.
In addition, the people in the Philippines are exceptionally polite to the point that makes me feel undeserving or pampered. Especially when people would greet you “Mam” (Madame) or “Sir” constantly and greet you with such warmth and offering great assistance. Similarly in the Filipino language, deference is showed by calling elder people “Manong” (similar to Uncle) and “Manang” (Auntie) while among younger groups its “Kuya” (big brother) or “Ate” (elder sister).
In between our stay in Baguio, we went high up in the mountainous Cordillera region of Sagada. The indigenous community that resides in Sagada are mainly Kankana-ey and they are largely Anglicans and some practise paganism.
The local lifestyle in Sagada moves at a slower pace which I totally understand since the scenery and nature there is so breathtaking that one must just pause for a moment to just embrace nature’s beauty. Being a city kid, I was entirely captivated by Sagada. Everything excited me and call for my appreciation, the cool breeze, the sunshine, the rainbows, walking barefoot and the feel of fresh earth on my feet, waterfalls, meadows, rice terrains, rolling hills or even the sunflowers that grow in such abundance.
Nonetheless, nothing captivates me more than the people. The children are adorable and have such sparkling eyes and cheeky smiles. I saw many of us having a great time interacting with and giving candies to them. At night, we sat around bonfires to warm ourselves. Bonfire gatherings are one of the common bonding sessions of the indigenous culture where they sing and dance to their traditional songs or to country music which they have adapted from the Americans.
Interacting with the indigenous people was a really precious and learning experience to me. I must say I was dumbstruck at how Westernised some indigenous people are, I felt like I was in cowboy-land instead. It took me some time to register when some would speak to me with a thick American accent, and occasionally and naturally, the common American vocab: the F word would come up, now that is what I call culture shock. I got to witness the workings of globalization where there cultures are no longer seen as authentic and yet can still remain untainted by modernity.
Generally, the local people are a great joy to be with. It is hard not to fall in love with the Philipines and I can only say “I love Baguio and Sagada”, mahal kita and laylaydeksika (I love you in Tagalog and the Igorot dialect).
By Eunice